Tuesday, September 2, 2008

A Peacock Falls in Love and Flora Avoids Jail (January 2007)

I have a new admirer. Aside from the routine, daily marriage proposals in the streets, at the market, and in every shop (apparently lots of folks would like to have a mzungu wife), I have attracted the attentions of a very persistent creature: The Peacock of Wajee.

Interesting thing about peacocks – the noise they make is a lot like the sound made when those two purple monsters honk each other’s orange noses… you know the Sesame Street ‘Siamese twin monster’ character(s), they always fight about which way to go? Well, for those who know what I’m referring to, you’ll understand. So naturally being a Sesame Street baby, I speak fluent peacock – who knew?!? Anyway it’s true love, on his part anyway… I’m still undecided.

On the business end of things, despite power fluctuations for three days (on/off/on/off – aaaaaaggghhhh I lost that document I was working on AGAIN???), we’ve managed to make some real headway on income, expenditure, accounts receivable/payable, and budget/forecast spreadsheets. I’ve also introduced two revolutionary concepts (don’t laugh): the “To Do List” and “Schedules”. WOW. Earthshaking progress, I tell ya! Actually it’s really gratifying to see how much of a difference these tools can make, and without any scorn I do totally see how it is the case that they are not yet ‘givens’ for this place as they are for us at home. So many basic needs are in question for so many people; the energy and time here is often spent dealing with crises, and lack of essentials. There has not yet been enough ‘spare energy’ so to speak, to create good infrastructure, systems and leadership. But everyone is receptive, eager to learn, and appreciative. And they have so much to share and teach, about experiences far different from my own.

I’ve learned about medicinal plants, bio-gas initiatives working to replace the dependence on firewood and charcoal (with its attendant environmental threats), sacred trees under which goat sacrifices used to (and still do) take place, witch doctors and government outreach programs designed to integrate these tribal healers by accepting their wisdom but offering basic sanitation classes to ‘improve’ the services they give their tribespeople. I’ve heard the passion in people’s voices about their country’s natural beauty and the need to conserve it, and I’ve witnessed unbelievable levels of dedication to self-improvement and education. Everyone from developed countries would be well served to visit developing countries for a lesson in gratitude (“studying is so boring; I hate broccoli; work is so stressful; the network is down again”… blah blah blah! At home where I'm from, we have FREE EDUCATION through secondary school, and most of us CAN go to post-secondary if we wish, even if we have to take student loans to do it. We HAVE the option of broccoli or a thousand other veggies. We HAVE jobs! We HAVE a network!) Every day I’m here I love these people more, and my heart wells up with gratitude for the many tools and support systems I have in my life back home. May I never take these gifts for granted as long as I live! (Now stepping off my soapbox...)

So aside from the power outages, we had some real drama the other day. Two men arrived from the local Licensing Bureau and literally demanded immediate payment of license fees unpaid since 2003 (I did say this place had been mis-managed before Flora, and I meant it!) or else they would haul someone off to jail. I sat quiet as a mouse in the back office listening. Papers were rummaged through. Voices raised, then hushed. Most of it in Swahili but a few English words here and there (“jail” “money” “arrears”). Flora, being savvy and diplomatic, rightly played dumb – being the new manager here only a few days, this was totally valid – and after many hours, they agreed to hold off on the jailing plan and let us sort things out. I was outraged after they left and could not believe that government representatives would behave in that way. I was assured that this is pretty normal and people just deal with it. Hmmmmmm...
Then suddenly, just after these two government official thugs leave, Jagi’s brother pulls up in a truck with some random bits of furniture being donated to Wajee. It’s quite nice, African style with raw wood and canvas strapping to hold the cushions in place. Really quite a sight, though, when placed next to the colonial English numbers that are in the Bar/Campfire area already! We’ll call it, um, eclectic.

Strangely, most of what I’m experiencing here (minus the peacock admiration and the government officials threatening to jail someone, of course) is very familiar. Reminds me of Hornby Island and my Dad’s place, actually! So maybe that’s why my ‘culture shock’ has been buffered… I was adapted early to the rustic life!

In other ornithological-romance news, we have a Magpie couple who hang out by the kitchen every day. They are quite the sweethearts, always snuggling and whispering in each other’s ears (well, I can’t tell if they have ears but I’ll just assume they do). And sharp as tacks, watching everything that goes on… and they are on anything shiny like a flash, if you drop something! These good-natured birds and the amorous peacock almost make me forget my hatred of the horrid geese, who despise me for no good reason and chase me every time they see me!
Carrying on with the wildlife updates, I had a HUGE praying mantis on my wall last night – I took pictures, of course. I’d never seen one except in pictures. They’re quite fascinating. Also we were visited by one of the local mongooses. I love mongooses! But I hope their presence does not indicate that snakes are also about… shudder.

Well that’s enough for today! Jagi, the director, is arriving today and will hopefully be pleased with the progress we’re making. I hope to arrange to stay on here until Wednesday but may have to go back to Nairobi with him tomorrow. I will be deeply sad to leave my family here, whether I go tomorrow or next week. My heart has grown very attached (you’re all nodding, you know me well enough to have predicted that!)

Okay my suitor the peacock is strutting outside the door trying to get my attention, I really have to go!!!

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